Thursday, February 12, 2009

Saint Johns River Blueway

Early last week I was contacted along with 11 other photographers from around Florida to help with the production of Florida Forever's 2010 calendar. Joined up with LINC and FNAI we were sent all over the state to document a slough of areas now targeted for conservation and protection from development. My area, called the Saint John's River Blueway is roughly a 13 mile stretch of wetlands, creeks, and cypress swamps located on the east side of the river. From Trout Creek down to Mccullough Creek parts of the flood basins have been drained and developed by golf course communities or cut down to make room for pine trees. These assaults on the land have greatly fragmented the natural corridors for wildlife and have changed the hydrology of the landscape by eliminating the swamps necessary for percolation and filtration. An ugly and harmful trend, southern developers slowly make their way up the state with the same tactics and strong arm they exacted to essentially drain the Everglades. I enjoyed two full days of paddling and tromping through the creeks and soggy swamps around Picolata, Florida with my camera at my side and often, over my head to keep it from getting wet. 

On the first day I followed the contour lines provided by the Florida road atlas (my outdoor Bible) up to Tocoi Creek. About 20 minutes into the paddle the creek turned unnavigable from deadfall and neglect so I walked another hour, hoping to run across a moccasin or gator, or something.

I crossed the creek several times on fallen trees and every time held my breath, and my camera, hoping the rotting tree wouldn't break under the pressure. Looking down at my feet, I felt as if the world had been turned upside down, reflecting trees shooting into the dank and dark depths of Tocoi Creek. 

Turtles basked on the side of the banks hoping to catch a few rays that penetrated the canopy. The light started getting low so I tromped back to the truck dragging the cumbersome kayak behind me, bumping loudly over cypress knees. 

A granola bar and nearly a half-gallon of water later, I pulled up to Six Mile Creek. Don't let the word "creek" fool you, Six Mile is wider than most rivers and deeper than I care to explore. The creek attracts local fishermen and a slough of boaters who stop at the highway 13 bridge for a fried anything and cold beer at the Backwoods Crab Shack. A mile upstream, however, I was all alone, just the birds, the gators, me, and the soothing dipping sound of my paddle. 

By the end of the first day I was exhausted. I paddled over 10 miles, walked more than 3, and called it quits with very few images worthy of a calendar. I started thinking I picked the wrong season, that I needed a boat, and many other excuses as to why I hadn't come up with an iconic image. I was grumpy and needed sleep. 

The alarm sounded at 6:30 in my Best Western bed (for lack of a camp site) and I stopped downstairs for the continental breakfast. Stale english muffins, that packaged grape jelly which always has a consistency more like jello than preserves, and a burnt cup of coffee didn't exactly have me skipping and whistling to work. Groggy, heavy, and full I headed straight back to Six Mile Creek and sighed at the kayak, as if to provoke some response from the vessel, before hauling it down to the water. The creek was still, as it was an hour before any boaters had their motors humming through the water. 

About a mile up the creek the early morning light broke through the east side of the bank and started painting dramatic backdrops of side-lit mosses and red maples. 

Great blue herons stood atop snags and egrets preened the matted lilies for crawfish and minnows.

Anhingas, or snake birds as they are often called, dried their wings in the humid morning light and I finally felt a warm sense of calm that things were going to be ok. I was going to make an image. 

Paddling a little further I noticed movement on the bank at my 2:00. One stroke of the paddle and I turned, drifting quietly towards what I thought was a gator. Pleasantly surprised, two river otters popped their heads through the lilies and swam towards me. 

Otters are known for being curious creatures when they do not feel threatened. Had I a boat, I probably would have never seen these beautiful animals. They arched and spun effortlessly in and out of the water for ten minutes not more than 10 feet in front of me. Occasionally yawning, it seems they too had a tough time waking up. 

I wished I had something to give them, some way to speak with them, at least something to show them my gratitude. Maybe these photos will help protect their home. The rest of the day I was on cloud 9. Wildlife sightings, when as intimate and personal as they often are in the backwoods of Florida, leave you with a feeling of solidarity, as if a spotlight of the universe briefly shined on your little corner of the world. 

I paddled on until the afternoon - until my stomach's grumbling was louder than the outboard motors trolling through manatee zones. Boats started to pepper the shoreline and people emerged from the woods on their make-shift boardwalks with fishing poles in hand.  Like a change in shifts, the wildlife dispersed into the thickets following smaller creeks. Discouraged by the heat and the motors, I waited out the harsh midday light on a park bench at Trout Creek, one of the northernmost points of the Blueway until around 3:00. 

I explored Trout Creek for three hours. Almost identical to Six Mile, the creek spanned about 30 yards across and lingered deep from within the forest, collecting runoff and wetland percolation until its confluence with the Saint Johns. Although more heavily populated, the creek is home to an RV park, many private residences, and a wild game preserve. 

This is the dockside entrance to the game preserve. I'd hate to see what their welcome mat says.

Even with the various homes and boats lining the shores, this creek still exuded the aura of a wilderness. All along the shore I heard rustling in dry leaves and the occasional splash of a gator plunging into the water. It turns out the rustling wasn't pigs like I thought, but groups of wild turkeys kicking through the leaf litter. Quietly, I eased into the water up to my waist and waded over to the shore, hiding behind a few fallen logs. It took the turkeys about 15 minutes to get close enough for a photo and even halfway submerged in the water, they still managed to spot me. Vigilant, paranoid little creatures.  

Around one of the bends I accidentally paddled dangerously close to a 14 foot gator. Longer than my kayak, this beast was scary big; a well-fed swamp dragon. I didn't manage to get any pictures because I paddled furiously to the other side of the creek. If there's a more humbling and vulnerable feeling than being only four inches from the water's surface with a massive, prehistoric reptile charging towards you, then I don't want to experience it. I've been around plenty of gators in open water, but this was perhaps the most discomforting and unnerving situation of them all.    

When my heart beat returned to a normal, less-audible rhythm, I turned around and headed back to the put-in. The sun made its descent across the western side of the river kissing a few clouds before ducking beneath the horizon. During my two days photographing the Saint John's River Blueway I ran the gauntlet of emotional and physical strain. A true experience in nature. Frustration, laughter, disappointment, elation, exhaustion, relaxation, and most importantly, appreciation. 

Just as I was packing up the kayak and taking off my soggy pants a man pulled up in his truck. A well matured mustache covered his lips and nestled right in the valleys of his cheek bones. He asked me if I found what I was looking for. Immersed in my work and completely self-unaware, I didn't realize that I stuck out like a sore thumb in my kayak, wielding an enormous camera instead of a pole amongst the boaters and fishermen. I happily scrolled through my images and showed him the last one. Eyes squinted, the corners of his mouth peeked out from underneath the course gray hair in a smile and said, "Yup, that's the place." 


Paddling under the Moonlight

This last weekend I met up with an old friend from college to camp and paddle in Lake County, Florida. All the elements for dramatic photography poured from the weather reports with a full moon rising coupled with the last leg of winter and the transition of spring. Pat and I met on Saturday around 12:00, set up the tent, then headed out on the water. We paddled to the north end of Lake Norris searching for the spring head but couldn't find it due to the thick vegetation. I scouted for possible sunrise locations making sure to avoid the cell phone towers on the horizon. 

Buzzards were everywhere. Sunning themselves on the trees they extended their wings to absorb heat as a form of thermoregulation. Surrounded by the sounds of thick, waxy feathers flapping clumsily on the thin cypress branches, we approached cautiously so as not to become drop zones for their foul-smelling feces. 

Hugging the shoreline we floated past a colony of great egrets in plumage, their wispy white breeding feathers ruffled in the wind, backlit by the afternoon sun.  These feathers, once a high commodity during the 1800s, nearly drove the great egret to extinction simply to garnish women's hats. It's funny how evolution brought them to propagate their species over thousands of years using the elaborate displays of feathers, only to be wiped out by the greed and senseless demands of transient fashion. Good thing the hats went out of style. 

That evening Pat and I walked out to a pine grove and watched the sun set over the pastures of the Harper Ranch. 

During the night, I tossed and turned, unable to string together more than two hours of sleep. It may seem like a romantic idea to sleep under a full moon, but without cloud cover it's the equivalent of sleeping with the lights on - only, there was no light switch. Temperatures dropped below 30 and dew settled on everything, even my sleeping bag. Waking up at 6:30 was tough. 

The morning proved fruitful and I weaved in and out of the gnarled cypress trees chasing the light. 

Twisted and deformed, cast away from the woodlands like unwanted lepers, these beautiful contortions of nature sat marooned in the murky, tannin-stained waters. 

After paddling along the east side of the lake and talking with a few locals, we decided to take to the woods. We saw a total of two gators in our three days on Lake Norris but my paddle hit more than ten. Unlike Lake Alice or Newnan's Lake in Gainesville, the gators here are not habituated to seeing humans so they typically stay out of sight when a boat draws near.  

Beaching the canoe we set out on foot through the cypress swamp trying to find the path of least resistance and if possible, the dry path. A swarm of bees hovered somewhere close by but thankfully we never saw it. I kept saying to Pat, "Keep your eyes peeled for moccasins, you do not want to get bit out here." Secretly, it's what I desperately wanted to find. 

Sure enough, I jumped over an exposed root and started heading back for the canoe when Pat said nonchalantly, "there's a snake here." I was so excited. This beautiful cottonmouth sat no more than a foot from where I climbed up and I completely missed him! This is also a good testament to how dangerous and well-camouflaged these serpents are.  When I got closer, in predictable fashion he reared up and opened its mouth, showcasing its fangs. I locked in with my macro lens and had Pat violently wave his arms while I made images. The snake was agitated but not harmed in any way.

I love these snakes so much, almost in a masochistic way. I wanted to hold him, feel his rough scales and thick body around my hand. Putting the bad idea to rest and containing my desperate childish urge, we headed back to camp. 

That night Pat left for home and I stayed for one more night and one more sunrise. I said goodbye and shot out across the water just before the sun went down. 

The nearly full moon emerged from the tree line and I started playing with compositions. Remembering David Muench and his work out at Arches National Park, I decided to do my own rendition of a window on the world. 

Around 9:00 I set up my camera (precariously clamped to a tree) and made some nighttime images. This one was an 18 minute exposure.

The next morning I paddled out to my second favorite tree of all-time and waited for sunrise. Underneath my sweater I had another sweater, underneath that, a short-sleeve shirt, and underneath that, a long-sleeve connecting to ski-gloves. Looking absolutely ridiculous I waited for the light, swearing that the ospreys were laughing at me.

A beautiful way to spend the weekend in Florida.  

Monday, February 2, 2009

Cold Front Sweeps through Gainesville

It's been a long time since I've seen this much rain during the winter. The recent cold fronts coming through central and north Florida have helped to quench the dry land but we will need at least a week straight of hard rain to cap off evaporated ponds and to replenish a healthy flow to our rivers. Hogtown Creek is a good indicator of Gainesville's water needs as it is the unfortunate recipient of runoff from the streets and lawns of the city. Fortunately for us, the water seeps through miles of wetlands and natural filtration before its final dive into the aquifer at Hogtown Sink. 

The dominant tree in this area of Hogtown is the planer elm. Adapted to flood plains and poor soils, its roots make sure to anchor deep and wide to combat the constant flux of water levels. 

Also, red maples flourish in the swampy areas of Florida adding a garnish of red and orange hues to the landscape. 

On Sunday morning the air was a frigid 30 degrees, clashing with the tepid water resulting in a backlit dance of polar fog.